Dog Attacks | All Dogs Can Attack | Potentially Life Saving Tips

A dog attack can happen to any person at any time and for any reason. Just because an animal is domesticated doesn't mean that they aren't capable of attacking another animal, or more importantly, a person.
 
A very important thing to remember about dogs in general is that ALL DOGS CAN ATTACK! Even the tiny breeds can be killers. It may seem silly, but it is quite true.

Case in point, in October of 2000 a news-story reported that a family's pet Pomeranian had mauled their 6 week old baby. As a result, the baby died shortly thereafter. ("Baby Girl Killed by Family Dog," Los Angeles Times, Monday, October 9, 2000, Home Edition, Metro Section, Page B-5.)

So if you are living under the assumption that just larger dogs can inflict fatal wounds, you had better start re-thinking!

While it's true that larger breeds are responsible for much of the dog attack fatalities reported, you should never underestimate a smaller breed though. Most of the fatalities that occur are within two groups of people, children and the elderly. In the United States alone there were an estimated 304 dog attack related deaths between 1979 and 1996 from an estimated 30 or so different breeds of dogs. Sadly, it seems this fatality number is on the rise.

But, this doesn't have to happen to you! This guide will give you some potentially life-saving tips in case this unfortunate event should happen to you, or someone you love. I encourage you to share the information inside with those you care about. Your children, your spouse, your parents, your grand-parents, and your friends. Life is extremely unpredictable. You never know what could happen. A dog can attack within the blink of an eye, forever changing your life.

Of course there is no solid guarantee that these tips will prevent a dog from attacking, or a possible fatality from occurring caused by a dog attack. But it is always better to be armed with knowledge that could change the end result and equip yourself with it.

All of the tips and suggestions outlined here can be used in any dog attack situation, or potential situation. Even those that could occur with your own family pet. Both realistically and statistically, most dog attacks occur within the home or near the home of the dog, or dogs (77%)!

So take what you need from this ebook. Print out the important points, hand them out to your family as flyers. Whatever way you can, get this information into the hands of those you care about so they don’t become a statistic.

NEVER ASSUME ANYTHING ABOUT A DOG

This is very important. You should never assume that a dog is "nice" based on their outward appearance or the particular breed of the dog. Even if the dog is wagging his tail, this doesn't necessarily mean that he wants you to come right up and touch him. No matter what breed of dog, all dogs are still animals. And animals have certain instincts. These instincts can affect their behavior, but unless you are a dog psychic, don't think you know what's on their minds judging by their looks, or what they are doing.

A strange dog is just like a strange human. Never approach a strange dog, even if it looks friendly. Just as it is a stranger to you, you are to it, and anything could happen in a situation like this.

This is doubly important for a family pet. They are still animals and while most pets can be trusted, some things may lead to erratic behavior not exhibited by the dog before. So just because you've had Fido for years and he's been the best behaved dog on the block, doesn't mean Fido can't have a "Jekell and Hyde" moment. Anything could set an animal off. Any animal.

Here are just 2 examples of things that can “go wrong”:

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    Potentially Disastrous Situation #1

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You happen to see a dog, or several dogs, wandering down the street coming straight in your direction you have never seen before. What should you do?

To try and avoid a potentially deadly situation with a strange dog, you need to understand 2 things:  1)What You Should Not Do and 2)What You Should Do. The best way to learn what to do is to learn what not to do!

1. Never Look A Dog Directly In The Eyes.
They usually take this to be a form of aggression on your part, or a challenge. Always look away as if your attention is drawn to something else, but don't take all your attention off of the animal. Use the "looking out the corner of your eye" technique with your head turned away from the dog so you can still watch what he's doing and prepare for a confrontation if one occurs.

2. Never Back Away From An Approaching Dog.
The general rule here is to keep your hands down at your sides and stay as still as possible. "BE LIKE A TREE" is a common phrase taught to children when encountering stray dogs or dogs they don't know. If you do begin to back away, the dog may see this again as a form of aggression, like a "showdown".

3. Never Run From A Dog.
This should never be done and could make the attack even more deadly. Due to the predatorial nature of dogs, they take this as a signal that you are a potential prey victim to them. So they will treat you exactly as they perceive you, as their prey. Do not run, this will just lead to more disaster.

4. Never Scream, Kick, Throw Things At, Or Yell At A Dog.
This is taken as obvious aggression by the dog and they will more than likely attack for the simple fact that they, not knowing you either, do not know what you will do to them, even small children. So out of this fear, instinct kicks in, and they act on it by attacking.

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    Potentially Disastrous Situation #2

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It's a pleasant day outside, so you decide to let your kids outside to play with your dog while you get some important things done inside. The yard is fenced, so neither can escape, and the dog will guard the kids against strangers. Besides, the task will take you less than 10 minutes to finish. What could happen?

Yikes! A LOT COULD HAPPEN IN LESS TIME THAN THAT!! It doesn't matter how long you've had the dog for, how friendly he is with your children, or how much you trust him. He still has the ability to BITE and cause massive damage to your child. This situation has much more disastrous potential when you put other factors into play such as: your children having friends over, or the dog is another family members pet and you are just "keeping an eye" on him for a while so that Aunt Sadie can get some errands done.

The dog could even escape from the yard, creating an even more deadly scenario for both your children (escaping from the yard) and other neighborhood children.

1. If You Or Your Children Have Friends Coming Over, Secure Your Pet In An Area Where They Cannot Bite Anyone.
Whether this is inside the house in a special room, like a home office, or a bedroom, it's in everyone's best interest to put the dog up if other strange children are coming to your home to play. Just because your children know how to behave around a dog doesn't mean other children will. And just because your dog is good with your children doesn't mean he will like someone else's.

2. Always Supervise Play-Time With Family Pets And Children.
This may be awfully obvious, but some people feel that their children are safe at all times with the family dog. It simply isn't true. Anything can happen. And if you're not there to see for yourself what did occur, you won't know what sparked this attack, no matter how minor the infraction. Some dogs can "play rough" and see nothing wrong with engaging in this type of play with the humans they love as brothers and sisters (part of their pack). On the same token, children also can "play rough" with one another, and depending on the circumstances could provoke the dog into biting on the basis that he feels it his job to protect another member of the pack. Either make your children wait for you to finish the task before going outside, or keep the dog inside with you until you are done.

ALWAYS SEEK PERMISSION BEFORE YOU TOUCH OR APPROACH SOMEONE ELSE'S DOG

Just because theres a new puppy in the neighborhood doesn't mean that it will automatically be friendly. It's never a good idea to go up to a strange dog and try to pet them. Even puppies can bite hard enough to create an open wound that hurts. And the bigger the puppy, the greater the damage can be.

There are proper ways to touch, or pet, another person's dog. You should always follow these tips before approaching a strange dog, no matter it's size.

1. Never Touch, Call To, Or Go Near A Dog Or A Group Of Dogs That Are Alone.
You should always try and find the owner of the dog before touching it. If the dog is alone without anyone with it, STAY AWAY FROM THE DOG! Strange dogs that you don't know should be considered dangerous to you, even if it is just a tiny puppy. There are lots of things you don't know about the dog in question. Does it have all it's required shots? Has it been exposed to abuse from children or adults? Is it a breed that tends to be more aggressive towards people? And the list could go on. The point is, if the owner isn't around, no matter how cute it is, don't touch it without permission and supervision first.

2. If The Owner Says It's All Right To Pet The Dog, Then Do So Cautiously.
The best way to go about letting the dog get to know you is to stand very still, in a sideways position, and let him approach you first. Let him sniff you a little. If he approaches you first, then the next step you can take for more "socialization" is to extend the back of your hand to the dog. This will let the dog get to know you without the tendency to be afraid that you will hurt him. You should slowly and calmly extend the back of your hand, fingers under your palm, sort of like a fist, but keep your fingers loose, to the dogs nose in a slow, low rising motion. If while you are doing this, the dog begins to growl or snarl, slowly take your hand away. Don't use any fast or "jerky" motions as this could cause a dog to snap at you. Also, you should not wiggle your fingers around when doing this. It could also make the dog want to bite. Keep them still and slightly under the palm.

3. Don't Pat A Dog On Top Of His Head.
Usually dog's don't like this and would prefer if you first gave him a soft scratch under his chin. This is more comfortable for the dog and is considered less aggressive than say a head pat. Then, maybe you could do some "behind the ear scratching" if the chin scratching is received well.

4. Use "Calming Techniques" When Beginning To Socialize With A Strange Dog.
Never do this with an unattended dog though. The outcome could be dangerous. So always make sure the owner of the dog is present at such times. Certain techniques referred to as "calming" techniques are was of socializing yourself with a dog without enducing fear or suspicion in them. Some basic calming techniques include walking slowly in an arc, sitting, squating, sniffing things near to you, like the ground, flowers and such. This type of "calming" behavior reassures the dog that you are not wishing to harm him, just to make friends, as another dog would do.

NEVER TEASE OR HIT A DOG FOR ANY REASON

Abuse breeds violence. No one should hit, kick, throw objects at, or tease a dog in any manner, whether with food or otherwise. All this type of behavior does is upset the dog and make certain it will display more aggressive behaviors towards those associated with the abuse. It doesn't matter if it is your pet, or someone elses, never tease or hit the animal.

There's no reason to. Even if it is doing something that is annoying you, don't hit it. Even if you engage in "rough play" with your family pet, this could lead to exhibiting bad behaviors with people or animals the dog does not know, so you should try to avoid this type of play. By rough play I am referring to things like tug-of-war, slapping the dog around the head or in the front of his mouth to try and get him to "play bite". Things like this should not be done, even if no harm is meant by it, it could cause potentially harmful situations to occur towards someone else.

WHAT TO DO WHEN EVERYTHING ELSE HAS FAILED AND YOU ARE ABOUT TO BECOME THE VICTIM OF A DOG ATTACK

If you have tried everything suggested above and the dog, or dogs, have begun their attack anyway, there are still some things you can do to fight back and protect yourself. Any one or combination of these could save you or someone else from being a dog attack fatality statistic.

1. Cover Your Head And Neck With Your Arms.
These will be most likely the first areas a dog will attack you. Protecting these areas with your arms will make it more difficult for the dog to get to vital areas where severe damage can be done such as the neck and head. Do not drop your arms down for any reason and hold them as tightly as you can around these areas.

2. If Knocked To The Ground, Lay Still In A Fetal Position.
When in the fetal position with your arms covering your most vital places (head and neck) during a dog attack will make it more difficult for the dog to produce fatal bites in these particular areas. Many times, if you just lay there and sort of "play dead", like with bears and other wild animals, more than likely they will stop attacking believing you are finished and simply leave you alone. But even if they do stop, DON'T MOVE! They could still be lurking about and if you move it could start the attack all over again.

*Important Note*: When using this technique, don't just drop on the ground, especially if you are being attacked by a more fierce, larger dog breed. Try to stand up straight, like a tree, with your arms protecting your head and neck. If the dogs knock you down, keep your head and neck covered up the best you can and get into the fetal position as quickly as possible to protect your mid section.

3. Stay Still Until Help Arrives And Don’t Panic!
It's okay to be scared. Who wouldn't be??? But try your best not to panic, no matter how scared you are. Just stay in the fetal position with your head and neck covered not moving. No matter how bad the pain is, and I know it's bad, don't move your arms from your head and neck to try and fight off the dog attack. This will leave vital areas unprotected and within seconds the attack could turn deadly.

4. DO NOT RUN!!
This sends a very clear signal for the dog to chase you down like prey. Stand your ground, but under no circumstances are you to "charge" the dog. Too many things

could go wrong. Stay where you are. Even though climbing a tree might seem like a good idea, some dogs can also climb up or jump pretty high. And, dogs can outrun you. That's a fact. If while the dog is still coming at you, you can try and scream the word NO!! at the top of your lungs just as loud as you can. If the dog is afraid of you, it will more than likely stop, or run away. But this is not a sure bet. Although using the word NO in a forceful manner has stopped some attacks.

5. Go For The Eyes, Ears, And Nose If You Can.
Hitting a dog in the nose or on the top of its head as hard as you can, twisting its ears, or poking it in the eye can be an effective way of escaping an attack. Inflicting pain on the animal will in most cases stop an attack, at least for a brief period of time, which may give you just enough time to get to a safe place and get help.

6. Carry Animal Pepper Spray, A Whistle, Or A Stun

Gun With You When Heading Outdoors.
Several places carry products that you can defend yourself with in case you are attacked by an animal, including a dog. Items like animal pepper spray, a whistle that omits high pitched sounds, or a stun gun can be a tremendous aid when encountering aggressive or attacking dogs. Always be prepared to use these when outdoors and have the chance of getting into a potentially bad situation with a dog or dogs.

7. Use Anything Sturdy And Close To You As A Weapon To Defend Yourself With.
If you have enough time to grab an object such as a broom, rake, shovel, baseball bat, etc., something strong you can defend off an attacking dog with, do it. But do it quickly as you will not have much time to act as the dog, or dogs, are rushing towards you. If there is nothing you can use, follow the technique outlined in number 2 of this list.

I hope this guide has given you some useful information that will help you in case you ever find yourself in one of these situations, and I pray that you never do.

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Dachshunds - Housebreaking the Dachshund Puppy

Dachshunds - Housebreaking the Dachshund Puppy

Housebreaking a puppy is never easy. With Dachshunds the challenge is greater than with most other breeds. But with patience and attentive care, it is possible.

Most dog owners enjoy having their companions around inside the home, at least part of the day. With puppies that is almost a necessity. Unless the mother is around, puppies can easily get in harm's way. But keeping puppies from urinating or defecating on the floor or carpet requires continual vigilance, too. There's just no substitute for careful observation while they are young.

The problem is larger in the case of Dachshunds not because of lack of intelligence - they are among the smartest breeds - but because they can be willful. Doxies like to do what they like to do. Early training can only compensate so far. But, it can compensate.

Start your puppy off in the right direction. Avoid letting it roam freely throughout the house until well after it has been housebroken. Crate training is one way to accomplish that.

Crate training involves using a small plastic or wire cage to house the Dachshund, at least part of the time. Contrary to popular belief, dogs will eliminate where they sleep. Usually they won't lay in it unless they have no choice. But they will go in one spot and lay nearby. Confining them to a small crate improves your odds of getting them outside in time to eliminate there instead.

Paper training is another popular method, but it has some serious drawbacks.

This method involves papering a large section of the room or house with paper, upping the odds the pup will go on it, not elsewhere. Then, gradually, the paper area is shrunk, theoretically causing the dog to use the smaller area. Ultimately, the paper is moved outside when the dog is old enough or has enough self-control to follow it.

One drawback is that paper training often just fails. If the Dachshund goes on the paper the first time, your odds are better that it will work long-term. But if they happen not to go there, they tend to follow the smell to the same spot and eliminate on the carpet or floor again. Paper training requires you to get lucky or continually increase the area covered.

Another, perhaps more serious flaw in paper training is that it creates a dependency that never goes away. The dog never learns to go outside to eliminate. That may be necessary in some housing circumstances. But most people will enjoy their environment better if their dog eliminates outdoors.

The best method, then, is to watch carefully for any signs that your Dachshund puppy needs to eliminate and rush them outside to do so. That means looking for when they lower their hind ends. Sometimes, they will precede that by sniffing around for where they went last time. When you observe that behavior, pick them up - supporting the entire length of the dog's long body - and set them quickly down again outside.

If you don't see them perform the behavior, be sure to let them go outside at least every hour anyway. If they take the hint, or just happen to go, lay on the praise.

Doxies will take longer, on average, to learn the routine than other dogs. That is a reflection of the fact that they are more difficult to train generally. Where some breeds will pick up the idea in a few days to two weeks, Dachshunds may require three to as much as six weeks.

But, then, when it comes to these lovable but spirited dogs, learning patience early on is good training for you, too.

Dachshunds - Vaccines for Your Dachshund

Dachshunds - Vaccines for Your Dachshund

Vaccines are an essential tool in keeping your Dachshund healthy, but a few do carry some risk of allergic reaction. Knowing which are vital and which are optional can help improve your odds of doing good without doing harm.

- Rabies

Rabies vaccine is among the most important for your Dachshund, as it is for any dog. While the disease is much less common today, the consequences of getting it are still so drastic - often fatal - that most vets still recommend it.

Rabies vaccinations are typically given every year to puppies and every two to three years thereafter. Most states require the vaccination and determine a specific schedule. That is being re-evaluated as research now shows that immunization lasts three years or more. See your vet for specific guidelines, but also seek a second or even third opinion and decide accordingly.

Serious side effects from the shot are rare, but may include swelling, hives, fever or lethargy, along with decreased appetite.

- Canine Distemper

Distemper shots used to be routine. Today they are still common, but schedules have lengthened. Contemporary research shows that puppies given a series of shots will develop antibodies that last several years. First shots should be given at roughly eight weeks. As with any vaccine, the schedule can vary from one part of the country to another, since prevalence and the associated risks of the disease vary geographically. See your vet.

- Parvo

A vaccine to protect against the parvovirus is often combined with that for distemper, though it can be given separately. Keep in mind that 'combo' shots represent a slightly greater risk of allergic reaction. Combinations also make determining the cause of any problem more difficult.

In some dogs, the immune system goes into 'hyperdrive' and produces facial swelling, redness of the gums and other symptoms. If a problem occurs, it typically happens within an hour or less, so stay near your vet's office after any vaccination. Observe your dog carefully. Have Bendryl on hand and call your vet at the first sign of a reaction.

- Hepatitis

This shot helps protect against infectious canine hepatitis. Here again, the disease is not common and the shot carries a small risk of allergic reaction. But the disease is serious enough that owners will want to discuss the subject carefully with their veterinarian and seek a second opinion before deciding. Kidney infections are possible following the vaccination, since modified live virus is used.

- Lepto

Shots to immunize against the leptospira bacteria used to be routine, and in many areas still are. But this is another vaccine that may cause a reaction and offers only short-lived protection against the disease. Since the disease itself is rare, this vaccine is considered 'non-core' by many vets today.

- Bordatella

The Bordatella organism causes a fairly common condition popularly known as 'kennel cough'. The name comes from the fact that the organism can be airborne and can spread when dogs are housed close together. It is not a serious disease, but does require treatment when it arises.

If your Dachshund does not come into contact with strange dogs this vaccine is probably unnecessary. Exceptions are when you intend to go on vacation and kennel your Doxie, or in areas where the disease has gone unchecked.

Summary

Vaccines are a low-risk, outstanding way to protect your Dachshund against a wide array of diseases. But 'low risk' does not mean 'no risk' and what was once a routine habit has become a more thoughtful exercise, thanks to improved research.

Paranoia about vaccines is unfounded. After all, the risk of disease is not zero, either. But careful consideration of the benefits and risks will help maximize your dog's health.

Dachshunds - Dachshund Varieties

Dachshunds - Dachshund Varieties

Because of cross-breeding there are dozens of different Dachshund varieties. But they fall into just a few broad categories. The AKC recognizes three coat varieties and two sizes.

Size

Standard-size Dachshunds (the type most often seen in ads or commercials) are about 9 inches high at the withers (the top point of the shoulder blades). These are the classic 'weiner dog' with long bodies, short legs and stout chests. Weight runs anywhere from 10-30 lbs. Anything larger is either a mixed breed or an obese dog.

Miniature Dachshunds are becoming even more common in an already popular breed. They may be as light as about 8 lbs but are typically around 10 lbs. They are correspondingly shorter than the Standard, about 5 inches high at the withers.

Coat

The Smooth-Coat is the original type and the most common in movies. They're often reddish-brown, but darker colors like chocolate exist in large numbers. Less common are Smooth-Coats that are dappled (spotted) or brindled (striped). That type shows up more often as a Wire-Haired or Long-Haired variety.

Wire-Haired dogs almost resemble a cross between the stereotypical Doxie and a Schnauzer or terrier. They have long muzzle hair and furry chests. The coloring is also more terrier-like, often a blue-gray mixed with tan.

The Long-Haired is especially beautiful, sporting a long, silky coat, similar to a Cocker Spaniel. Colors can vary but reddish and black, sometimes mixed with a little white, is fairly standard. That long hair is also found on the back of the rear legs and the tail, somewhat like Goldens.

An offshoot is the Piebald, a white pattern superimposed on a background color, such as red or brown.

Apart from color, the different types shed at different rates.

Not surprisingly, Smooth-Coats shed less (but less does not mean 'not at all'). They also have a particular odor that is not found in other breeds. Without regular bathing that odor can become pronounced and some owners find it annoying.

Long-Hairs, as one might expect, shed the most and require the most grooming attention to keep out mats.

Wire-Coats are in between the two extremes, but they do require regular care. Their long muzzle hair can be a particular problem, made more difficult than usual by the dog's short legs.

Eyes

While darker eye color dominates, those with modified coats can have amber or green eyes. Double Dapple types (a special genetic variation) often have very light blue eyes. Birth defects are more common in this type, though, and some are born blind or without fully developed eyes.

Thanks to the large geographical dispersion and popularity of the breed, Dachshunds of the basic types have evolved to dozens of sub-types. Smooth-coat dappled gray Doxies are not hard to find, nor are Long-Haired black and white ones. Yet all have the same lively disposition that makes Dachshunds one of the most popular breeds worldwide.

Dachshunds - Accessories for Your Dachshund

Dachshunds - Accessories for Your Dachshund

Leashes and collars are common accessories for all dog breeds. But Dachshunds are a little different than most and call for some special items that fit their unique nature.

By all means, they will need a collar. Or, more accurately, you will need one for them because they are among the most independent breeds. But because they are prone to spinal problems, a halter will be safer in most cases.

A halter combines a neck constraint with a chest section. The more complete wrap-around design lowers tension on the neck and gives a broad, flat area on the chest to help them and you. It helps them by lowering the pressure on any one area, such as the throat. It helps you because increasing the total area lowers the force you have to exert to control these assertive dogs.

Some models include a clip that makes it easy to attach a car seat belt to the section between the shoulder blades. That's a great idea for those who travel with their Doxie. Dachshunds are adventurous and like to be part of everything, so they are more difficult to encourage to stay lying down.

For those truly difficult to control dogs, a carrier is very handy. Because of the Dachshunds relatively small size, a small plastic container is perfect. They are also less likely to harm themselves in one than with a wire carrier. Keep an eye out for any chewing behavior, though. Most don't like being caged and eating plastic parts can lead to diarrhea.

They can get more used to being confined if they are crate trained early in life. Dachshunds love to 'den' and a small area all their own is often greeted warmly. Ensure it is well-padded and holds a few sturdy chew toys for dental health and to give them an outlet for all that energy.

Balls are always a good idea for a Dachshund, but they are not retrievers. They are as likely to hold onto a ball as not. Working with them requires the right size and material. Because of their small mouths, a tennis ball is often too large. But a golf ball can represent a health risk. Look for toy balls especially designed with Doxies in mind.

The same can be said for an obstacle course, which is the perfect outdoor or indoor play arena for these high-energy animals. They are small enough that a good-sized room can accommodate a few obstacle course components like a tunnel and ramp. Ramps are preferred to steps because of the dog's size and the likelihood of spinal problems in this breed.

Outdoor obstacle courses can include a walking platform, provided it has walls to prevent jumping off in the middle. A water slide during hot weather is perfect for this breed, especially the Long-Hair or Wire-Hair types. They love to play and hot weather taxes their thick, muscular bodies.

Dachshunds are fun, adventure-loving creatures, but they are also curious. That can lead to a great time or getting into trouble. Ensure the former and avoid the latter with the right accessories.

Dachshunds - The Dachshund Diet

Dachshunds - The Dachshund Diet

Despite the sometimes frantic comments of advocates of 'natural' dog food, commercial dog foods are fine for your Dachshund. Some of those concerns are well placed, though. A diet that is not too rich and not too lean, full of healthy ingredients is best. But that advice is far too vague as it stands. What does it really mean?

- Ingredients

Any commercial kibble food will have a list of ingredients on the package, starting with the one present at the highest percentage listed first. Ensure that the ingredient listed first is some kind of animal protein. Chicken, beef or lamb are the most common. Vegetable proteins are harder to break down into useful components and contain smaller concentrations of needed amino acids.

Like other dogs, Doxies are by nature meat eaters. But fresh meat isn't required. Anything that provides enough protein is fine, since what is really needed are the amino acids that go to make them up. Any protein consumed is broken down to those constituents then 're-constructed' again by the dog.

Apart from amino acids, there are a number of essential vitamins and minerals required for good functioning.

Foods rich in Omega-3 and Omega-6 fatty acids are good not only for humans but Dachshunds, too. In both cases, those compounds help improve joint and skin health.

Antioxidants perform a role similar in a Doxie's life that they do in their owners. Vitamin E, beta-carotene and others help protect the immune system by reducing something called 'free radicals'. These are elements or molecules with an extra electron that can harm cells when they exist in too-high concentrations.

Fat, far from being the villain it is sometimes (incorrectly) painted in discussions of human diet, is a must. Fats provide compounds vital for good nerve function. They are broken down to take part in forming hormones and enzymes. They also provide a source of calories that Dachshunds need to power all those activities, just as people do.

- Amounts

Puppies that have been weaned should eat 3-4 meals per day. Smaller amounts, fed more often, are preferable to large helpings at one time, even though that is a little more inconvenient for the owner. The routine is best for Doxies about 8-12 weeks old.

Between the ages of 3-6 months the frequency should be reduced to no more than three and possibly only two meals per day. Even puppies can get fat, so keep an eye on the waistline behind the rib cage. It should have a slight curve. If your Doxie is perfectly straight you may be feeding too much.

That advice is a little more difficult to follow in the case of Dachshunds than some other breeds, since they are a bit more tubular by nature. Even so, the curve can be seen if you observe closely. Aid your eye by feeling the puppy in front of the rear legs. Get familiar with their shape and it will be easier to judge small changes.

By the time they've reached a year old, one meal per day is fine. If they seem eager to eat more often two meals is fine, but divide the portions in half.

Feed your Dachshund a premium brand food. Those contain a more appropriate quantity of calories and less 'junk food' than cheaper brands. For fussy dogs, or just for extra flavor, mixing a spoonful or two of wet food with dry is fine.

Never feed your Dachshund chocolate, raisins, or grapes - all of which are toxic to dogs.

Dachshunds - How To Groom Your Doxie

Dachshunds - How To Groom Your Doxie

All dogs require regular grooming to keep their coats healthy and their nails in trim. Exactly which technique to use for your Dachshund depends on which of the three main types you have.

Smooth-Coat

A Smooth-Coat Dachshund is the classic, short-haired type you have seen in a hundred films and ads. Their coats are easy to care for, requiring little more than a regular bath and brush. 'Regular' varies with the dog's age and environment.

Younger dogs may require baths as often as once per week, though once a month is fine when they stay out of dirt and bushes. If they live in rougher circumstances, be sure to keep their coats clean and brushed regularly. 'Regularly' means at least twice per week, and as needed. Remove any plant material as soon as they are done playing.

A wire slicker is fine for grooming, but exercise care. All dogs are durable, but it's important not to scrape the skin. That leads to hot spots that the dog will make worse by licking and chewing. Since Dachshunds are a high-energy, assertive breed, extra caution is needed.

Wire-Hair

The wiry hair on the muzzle, chest and legs of this variety gives them the name. It also gives them a need for extra grooming care. More frequent baths will be called for in their case, along with more regular brushing. Brushing will take longer, too.

Like the terriers they resemble, the stiff coat is actually in two layers. Get the undercoat with a slicker and use a regular brush for the upper layer. Remember, too, that they will shed more. That may call for a shed control shampoo in some cases. In every case, be prepared for seasonal changes as they naturally adjust to the change in weather by shedding more.

Trim any excess hair off the muzzle to avoid it dragging on the ground. A trim behind the rear legs will also be necessary once it reaches a length that leads to mats. Otherwise, regular brushing of once or twice a week is good enough.

Long-HairAs the name suggests, this type has long, wavy hair. Since Doxies are low to the ground, more regular trimming will be needed, along with more frequent bathing. Matting is especially common in this variety, but can be avoided with brushing every other day, especially behind the ears. When mats arise, trim them gradually with a blunt-nose pair of scissors until you have removed enough to work out the tangle with fingers and brush.

A combination shampoo and conditioner works well with this type. Take care not to over-bathe them, though, since that leads to dried, scaly skin. Regular, gentle brushing will help, since it smooths natural oils over the skin under the coat.

Nail TrimmingAll types need to have their nails trimmed often, usually weekly. The usual technique is fine. Get a good pair of guillotine scissors and hold each foot firmly, searching for the quick. Cut well away from the quick to avoid accidents, which are more likely in the Doxie's case because of their feisty nature.

Dachshunds - Common Diseases in Dachshunds

Dachshunds - Common Diseases in Dachshunds

The title is a little misleading since no disease is truly common in Dachshunds. The overwhelming majority are born healthy and live long, mostly disease-free lives. Some minor health issues arise for nearly every dog at some point, even those who receive early vaccinations and excellent life-long care.

Nevertheless, there are some conditions that tend to occur more frequently in Dachshunds than in other breeds.

- Adrenal Gland Malfunction

One common form of this malady is Cushing's Disease, known in other breeds with some regularity, too. Also known as hyperadrenocorticism, the disease causes the adrenal gland to overproduce cortisol. Since that hormone helps regulate blood sugar, one result is to keep it too high over a long period of time if the disease isn't treated. The net effect can include creation of diabetes as a secondary disease.

The condition is sometimes caused by a malfunctioning pituitary gland or adrenal tumors. As such, the disease can be treated once proper diagnosis is made. In the first case, hormone treatments help balance cortisol levels. In the second, surgery is warranted.

The opposite condition is possible in a malady known as Addison's Disease. This produces too little cortisol, resulting in hypoglycemia. Some of the symptoms are lethargy and poor appetite, both rare in healthy Dachshunds, a situation calling for a vet visit.

- PRA

Progressive Retinal Atrophy is an eye condition that produces gradual degradation of eyesight. In PRA, the membrane at the back of the eye slowly deteriorates, leading to loss of vision and ultimately blindness. There is currently no cure.

PRA, when it occurs, tends to start at around 2 years of age but may not become obvious until as late as age 10. The average age of diagnosis is just shy of 5 years old. Since it may not be detected for so long and can be subtle, it is possible to accidentally breed a Doxie with PRA, which perpetuates the bad gene responsible.

Regular eye exams for your Dachshund are advised.

- Kidney and Urinary Tract Problems

One common form of a fluid system problem in Dachshunds is kidney stones. These painful pebbles are produced when the kidneys fail to properly filter cystine, an amino acid, causing a condition called cystinuria. The root cause is a genetic disorder, but can be made worse by lifestyle factors such as diet.

One tell-tale sign apart from the dog having difficulty urinating, which can be hard to detect, is a sulphur or rotten-egg smell in the urine. Also, look for walking with an arched back which may also be the result of spinal problems. Treatment may entail a change of diet to reduce protein intake or surgery to remove the stones.

- Spinal Problems

Because of their long bodies and short legs, coupled with muscular and heavy chests, Dachshunds are much more prone to spinal problems than other breeds. Among the most common manifestations are disc problems, such as IVDD (Intervertebral Disk Disease).

Summary

Keep in mind that most Dachshunds, if they receive proper diet, exercise and care, lead normal, healthy lives of up to 15 years or more. Regular vet visits, including routine vaccinations and tests, will help ensure that outcome.

Dachshunds - The Dachshund Temperament

Dachshunds - The Dachshund Temperament

Dachshunds are independent. Dachshunds are loving. Dachshunds are playful. Dachshunds are aggressive.

How can all this be true of one breed of dog? Well, it is. Dachshunds are among the most complex and interesting breeds precisely because they encompass all these attributes and many more besides.

Bred in Germany in the 1600s to chase vermin, bold and fearless characteristics were selected first and foremost. At the same time, they had to be strong-willed, resourceful and persistent. It does little good to have legs and feet that are excellent for digging if the dog doesn't have the spirit of pursuit.

Those attributes have continued down the centuries. While most Doxies today are pets, not hunters, once attributes are bred in their nature doesn't change much. But what's aggression in one circumstance can be simple courage in another. What is willfulness in one situation can be valuable persistence in another.

Above all, Dachshunds are intelligent dogs. Their individualist character makes them more difficult to take an interest in training. But handled correctly, their smarts allow them to excel in whatever they do.

Keep in mind, too, that independence does not necessarily mean they are uninterested in others. Doxies are filled with curiosity and want to take part in any adventure going on around them. Some breeds are satisfied to sit by quietly and observe. A Dachshund wants to be in the middle of things, participating along with everyone else.

Within these broad outlines there are variations.

The classic-looking Smooth-Coat exhibits all the classic behaviors - barking at the least invasion to its territory, leading the pack whenever possible and more. It will be reluctant more often to take a bath and struggle during nail clipping time.

The Wire-Hair type looks and acts like a combination of Doxie and terrier. Terriers, too, are high strung. But they love to play and their behavior is not aggressive so much as just forthright.

The Long-Hair is more like the Irish Setter in miniature, though not to that extreme. They enjoy a good romp, but are a little more inclined to watch and wait their turn. They are among the easier varieties to train though they take a bit more grooming care.

All are natural diggers. Bred to chase badgers and other small game into a den, they like getting into things. Their powerful front legs and muscular chest make it pretty easy for them to do just that. Getting out isn't too much more difficult, thanks to the streamlined body and smooth, narrow head. As a result, if you want to keep the garden or lawn intact, don't allow the dog to roam freely without supervision.

But Dachshunds do need at least moderate exercise in activities where they can work off some of their natural energy. An obstacle course with tunnels is a good idea for these 'gophers'.

They are also loyal and loving. The bond between a Doxie and the person or family it 'adopts' is unusually strong. They want to be near people and enjoy interaction. As any Dachshund owner will be happy to tell you...

Dachshunds - Training Your Dachshund

Dachshunds - Training Your Dachshund

Dachshunds are by nature an assertive breed. First bred in the 1600s to hunt vermin, they still retain their independent, "go get 'em" attitude. That makes training a little more challenging in their case than with some other breeds. But, with patience and the right techniques, they can be shown that you are the alpha dog in the pack.

Since they love to play, take advantage of that and combine the two activities. Turn every session into a joint exercise in listening to commands and enjoying the rewards. Leash training serves as a good example.

Young dogs will naturally go wherever they want if unconstrained, Dachshunds even more so. But with a long leash you can keep them in check and still have room to exercise and play. Start with a short leash and then relax it as you throw a ball. Let the Doxie fetch, but slowly draw them in to return it. This allows them some fun but also teaches them what you want them to learn: obedience.

'Heel' is another common and important lesson. Start with the leash up short again and let the dog face outward at your side. In fact, insist on it. But when you tug on the collar and encourage them to stay at your side, be sure not to lift them up off the front legs. With most breeds that isn't a problem. But Dachshunds are prone to spine problems and stress on the back should be avoided.

The leash will first seem to them like a restriction. Turn that around by allowing them to see that it represents a chance to explore and roam, which Dachshunds love. If you have an area of the yard or a field where digging is ok, let them get their natural impulse out there. But reinforce the idea that they are not allowed to dig in the rest of the yard or garden. They are natural vermin hunters and will quickly make a hole unless trained.

All dog training requires patience, but Dachshunds will stretch yours to the limit. They are clever and will take a leash between the teeth to avoid carrying out a command.

Put the leash on the ground and step on it with your foot, close to the dog's head. Gradually move the other foot closer to the head, sliding it along the leash. Avoid stressing their necks, but this will encourage them to let go. Once they do, follow with lavish praise and maybe a small treat. Avoid handing out too many treats, though.

All training should start young, preferably right after housebreaking, which is itself a form of training. By ten weeks they are fully ready to begin simple 'sit', 'stay' and other common obedience actions, some even younger. Take care not to overdo the effort. Ten minutes at a time is plenty. Young dogs are like very young children and have limited attention spans. Stressing them only leads to willful disobedience and sometimes even aggression.

Dachshund - The Dachshund Breed

Dachshund - The Dachshund Breed

Dog owners love their dogs. But with Dachshunds that devotion reaches new heights. The reasons aren't hard to understand. Dachshunds are special in many ways.

Translation from the German 'badger dog' shows just one of those ways. Bred in the early 1600s to hunt those ferocious little animals, the Dachshund became ferocious himself. That assertive and fearless attitude remains today.

That feisty nature can be a positive or negative.

Dogs that are independent can make great companions, since that also makes them playful and exploratory. It provides the dog with lots of energy and a willingness to try new things. It also means that training them requires extra patience and skill. The breed is more inclined than many to strive for alpha status in the household. Reminding them that the human is boss may require a long struggle.

But that training has to be appropriate to the breed's mental and physical attributes.

Dachshunds weigh between 10-30 lbs and are 9 inches high at the shoulder. Toy varieties are quite a bit smaller, often under 8 lbs and only 5 inches high. Their lifespan is between 14-17 years, on average.

With their long bodies and short legs, Dachshunds are much more prone to spinal problems than other breeds. Rough handling can cause serious problems.

At the same time, because they are assertive, simply screaming won't do the trick. At best that produces a fearful dog, at worst, they can become hostile and aggressive in response. They may look at their trainer as an enemy badger. Barking is more common in Doxies, too, so owners should be prepared.

With the right approach, though, they make for excellent pets and companions.

There are three basic varieties - Smooth-Coats, Wire-Coats and Long-Hairs. But the difference goes beyond the type of fur they sport. The personalities of the three types tend to follow a pattern, as well.

Smooth-haired Dachshunds more often attach themselves to a single family member. While they will tolerate other humans, they tend to be stand-offish and wary of other animals. The Wire-Haired is usually more playful and outgoing. Long-haired Doxies tend to be a little more placid. Though, like any Dachshund, they are up for a game of fetch whenever the opportunity exists.

Apart from spinal problems, Dachshunds less often suffer from diseases that are more prevalent in other breeds. Diabetes, abdominal cancers and other diseases are possible but much less common in Doxies. Urinary tract problems (such as stones) can occur, but they are more likely in special varieties such as Double Dapples and those with blue eyes. These types tend to have more eye and hearing problems, too.

Raising any dog is a challenge, if they are to be healthy and happy. But Dachshund owners commonly report that the rewards in their case are especially large. Dachshunds are highly affectionate and very loyal. The people who live with them tend to return the favor.